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  • #16
    UPDATE!

    so with pricing out some new builds, having sticker shock, and realizing that I need to get a second job.... and with the season FAST approaching..... the used market came through!

    I picked up a new to me Pace shadow GT stacker. I believe this was considered a "glamis widebody edition" at least that's what the reminisce of a sticker reads out.... But it is 98" at the door and 98" between the lift posts (lift posts recessed into the walls) 20' box .... so I should be in legal length range, and no having to mess with that tire change nonsense

    It is going to get some TLC / updates very soon (might start a new thread? or just post here)

    some details:
    20' box
    98" wide all the way through
    4 post hydraulic platform lift
    fuel station
    water tank
    air compressor
    work bench w/ tool box
    pretty awesome solar setup (I need to learn more about this) 3 panels, inverter, charge controller etc


    ‚Äč

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    • #17
      Originally posted by tjZ06 View Post
      Makes sense, and that was a bitchen setup. So if you basically take my theory and do it on a 20' V-nose you'll be g2g. You could even do maybe a 18' belly-lift and have the man-door a little further back on the trailer, behind the front-right post.
      Is there a reason you backed your car in Vs. pull in? tongue weight thing, or something else?

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      • #18
        Originally posted by Empire231 View Post

        Is there a reason you backed your car in Vs. pull in? tongue weight thing, or something else?
        Something else. If anything I had too much tongue weight with my setup. I had a big toolbox up front on one side, and a 94 gallon fuel tank on the other up-front and the 60 gallon under-belly tank was entirely in front of the axles. My issue with my setup and the Potter was that the Potter on that sand wheel/tire setup was really wide. Neither end would clear the stops for the "ramp" on the sand setup, so I had to change one set of tires or the other. I probably would have rather changed the front since they're lighter (and narrower so I prob could have slid them under the car when I swapped) but I figured if I was going to change a set, I'd rather change the paddles and not have it sit around in storage on them. Also, changing the rears narrowed it up way more than just changing the fronts. It just fit nicely going in backwards on the load tires in back... that said having somewhere to put the giant paddles was kind of a PITA.
        -TJ

        "You can lead a horse to water... but you can't make it dune"

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        • #19
          Originally posted by tjZ06 View Post

          Something else. If anything I had too much tongue weight with my setup. I had a big toolbox up front on one side, and a 94 gallon fuel tank on the other up-front and the 60 gallon under-belly tank was entirely in front of the axles. My issue with my setup and the Potter was that the Potter on that sand wheel/tire setup was really wide. Neither end would clear the stops for the "ramp" on the sand setup, so I had to change one set of tires or the other. I probably would have rather changed the front since they're lighter (and narrower so I prob could have slid them under the car when I swapped) but I figured if I was going to change a set, I'd rather change the paddles and not have it sit around in storage on them. Also, changing the rears narrowed it up way more than just changing the fronts. It just fit nicely going in backwards on the load tires in back... that said having somewhere to put the giant paddles was kind of a PITA.
          Gotcha... I haven't done a test fit on my setup yet... but in theory it should fit. Planning on pulling straight in without swapping tires, I just need to make sure the space front the rear of the wheel wells to the rear door is enough space for my car. I measured and it should work, I guess I'll find out soon.

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          • #20
            First upgrade complete. Swapped out the fluorescent bulbs with some costco LED tubes. Much better light color, and save some juice. I am not very familiar with electrical draw, etc... but I'm pretty sure when I flipped those lights on, the little information panel was saying it was drawing 22 amps. After changing 8 total tubes to LED it shows 20 amps. I thought it would reduce it more than that?

            12v LED bulbs should show up today, along with some other little stuff.

            before & after

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            • #21
              With the ones you just replace the bulbs it doesn't drop that much because it still uses the transformer in the original light. You should change the entire fixture out with a LED fixture that has no ballast in it and it will drop to next to nothing.

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              • #22
                Originally posted by Another 1sl View Post
                With the ones you just replace the bulbs it doesn't drop that much because it still uses the transformer in the original light. You should change the entire fixture out with a LED fixture that has no ballast in it and it will drop to next to nothing.
                Gotcha... I was wondering if it had to do with the ballasts

                I guess I will have to see how much this stuff drains the batts to see if I need to go through the hassle of replacing the fixtures.

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by Another 1sl View Post
                  With the ones you just replace the bulbs it doesn't drop that much because it still uses the transformer in the original light. You should change the entire fixture out with a LED fixture that has no ballast in it and it will drop to next to nothing.


                  -TJ

                  "You can lead a horse to water... but you can't make it dune"

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                  • #24
                    Congrats on the new trailer. I need to ditch my fluorescent fixtures and go with LED's. Looking forward to seeing the upgrades.
                    LIEVENSE RACE SERVICES
                    RACE & PLAY CAR PREP
                    WELDING & FABRICATION
                    CAD DESIGN & WATER JET
                    FULLY INSURED TRANSPORTATION SERVICES

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                    • #25
                      Originally posted by L.R.S. View Post
                      Congrats on the new trailer. I need to ditch my fluorescent fixtures and go with LED's. Looking forward to seeing the upgrades.
                      Thanks man!

                      plans are new coined rubber floor, add a winch and some other little misc stuff

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                      • #26
                        Of course the day after I installed the led tubes, one of the ballasts gave out. Looks like I will be ordering 4 new fixtures and saving some more amps after all.

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                        • #27
                          I did some researching on this solar setup, and it is around 3500-4k in parts alone I need to figure out how to plug the moho into this for running everything during the day without the genny... I'm assuming I turn inverter on in the trailer... run a basic 110 extension cord from my motorhome 50amp cord and plug it into an outlet in the trailer? This will give me 110 power in the moho, enough to run the microwave or coffee maker etc, without having to run the genny in the morning / afternoon.


                          new LED 110 & 12v fixtures showed up yesterday, along with a winch. New coined rubber flooring will show up next week,

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                          • #28
                            That's an expensive ass solar set up! It sounds like plugging the RV shore power cord into the trailer outlet would work but I don't know shit about it so hopefully someone who does know will post up.

                            Reminds me I have a second 320 watt solar panel I need to mount on the roof of my RV and upgrade to the larger solar controller. Not enough hours in the day.
                            LIEVENSE RACE SERVICES
                            RACE & PLAY CAR PREP
                            WELDING & FABRICATION
                            CAD DESIGN & WATER JET
                            FULLY INSURED TRANSPORTATION SERVICES

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              Replaced the upper 4' shop lights (4 of them) with LED fixtures, and the amp draw dropped from 22 to 17.... this still includes 3 smaller 2' shop lights mounted under the lift that are still fluorescent. assuming it would prob drop to 15 amps if I replaced those as well, but for now, I wont mess with them.


                              not sure why Pace would make a 98" door width, 98" between the post trailer, and then mount the hydraulic line about 7" away from the wall, behind the fender well. I had to move this thing over as close as I could to the wall, because I will be using most of that 98" space for my car to roll over those fenders. I am replacing the floor with coined rubber flooring, so this will all get buttoned up nicely..... and tonight I finally get to test fit the buggy.... hoping it fits haha.

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                              • #30
                                It makes no sense why they'd do that... but you'll be so stoked when you roll right in without changing tires.
                                -TJ

                                "You can lead a horse to water... but you can't make it dune"

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