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  • Hot damn, it's a car again!
    -TJ

    "You can lead a horse to water... but you can't make it dune"

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    • Originally posted by tjZ06 View Post
      Hot damn, it's a car again!
      It really is starting to look that way. Waiting on a shipment of parts from Summit and I should have enough stuff to make my new brake lines from the turning brake back to the calipers.

      Got a lot more little stuff one today-

      Wired up 90% of the dash- which really means just plugged in connectors
      Drilled a new hole for my 12v USB charging port on the driver's side (It got covered by the new body KATG did a while ago)
      Sorted and landed 90% or the wires from the fuse panel/relays under the rear seat and back to the engine
      Zip tied up the wiring on the front end (bumper lights)

      And a bunch of other little shit I'm forgetting.


      I did cross one big item off the list today though-


      My car has a sway bar. This car absolutely positively must run a sway bar. Without it the body roll goes from horrible to impossible. Actually my car isn't so bad because it's trimmed out in sandrail attire, but the two prerunners we had on the race team were really bad. Why? Because we had giant roof racks stuffed with all kinds of shit. One car had a spare coilover shock, P/S pump, servo, 10 quarts of various fluids, etc. It was heavy AF! But that stuff came in handy when we broke down while prerunning in Baja.

      To my knowledge, my sway bar has never been out of my car and it was a mother father to remove. It was also a bitch to get back in place. I had both end links PC'd to match the arms and I knew I was going to have to remove the PC from the splines. The right cleaned up just fine, PC came off easily and the link slide on with the help of a big rubber hammer. The left side, however, just wouldn't go on. I switched to a 2x4 and real hammer and it still wouldn't go on. Rather than let it get the best of me I walked away, for like the past couple weeks. But today was MY day and I gave it another go.


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ID:	29810 When I pulled the link off I noticed the splines were all buggered up. My fault? Sure. But how did this happen? It can only go on one way and the PC should not have caused this.

      I got my special little triangle file out that I use for CV's and got to work. The splines cleaned up nicely on the link and I was ready to install it. I looked closely at the sway bar itself an noticed the splines were a little mushroomed, just like I see on axles. I dreaded taking this sway bar out again to work on it while it's off the car. Leaving it in place I used the triangle file to clean them up as well. Eff me the link slid right on! A few taps with the rubber hammer, measure to center it in the mount and it was good to go. And then I remembered I needed to make sure the end links were clocked exactly the same on both sides.

      My garage floor is level-ish but having the car on my shop lift it is nowhere near level. To make sure the end links were level I needed to get a measurement on each side. I went with the top of the fuel cell since it is flat and almost directly in line with the top of the link.




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      One end link has a small piece of steel used to lock the link to the sway bar but the other side has a round piece of aluminum like a large washer. Why are they different? No clue never had them off the car before. The bolt for the aluminum washer side was bent so I tossed it and looked for another one. That's when I noticed some writing on the washer looking dealio.





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      It says "Geiser Bros". Uh, fuck yeah, I pretty much have a Trophy Truck now.


      It sounds like a small accomplishment but getting this sway bar mounted up is a pretty big deal and I was dreading it for the past two weeks. I really thought I had effed up the threads on the left sie link and was going to have to find a machine shop to broach it. But now that's checked off the list.

      Really wish I could find the stupid effing plate for the shifter and turning brake mount! If it doesn't turn up by Friday I'll have to make a new one so I can mount the shifter and turning brake and get the plumbing done.
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      • Didn't get much done today. Had a postal to wrap up for Hondajimz and then I ran a transport for a buddies steel company.


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ID:	29825My partner Brad is a great machinist and there is a lathe at the race shop. The team is out running Vegas to Reno so he called and said he was heading to the shop to put the groove in my axles. I cruised down to 'supervise'.


        As usual for this team, the lathe is fucked up and has a really bad wobble. It's so bad that the parting tool wouldn't work at all. Brad went old school and used a skinny 3" cut off wheel while the lathe spun the axle to cut the groove. Not our first choice but I need these done and it worked fine.





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ID:	29826One downside to using a cut off wheel is the splines get buggered up a little and I have to use my file to knock down the edges. That sucked but one axle is done.


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ID:	29828I always FILL the trans side cups with BelRay anti-seize.




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ID:	29829One side installed, sort of. The CV bolts won't go in all the way and I couldn't effing figure out why. I left it alone and started prepping the other axle. This time I tried the CV bolts in the boot flange and CV body and sure as shit the bolts wouldn't go in the CV. Weird. I drilled the boot flange out to 1/2" to make sure the bolts weren't binding there. Then I checked the bolts on the CV and they would only go in a few threads. Don't know why but whatever CV bolts were used in these particular CV bodies were not 1/2" which is standard for 935 CV's. Drilling those out would be a mother father so I just grabbed another CV body (I have like 4 complete sets) and swapped it our for a body the bolts will go into. Problem solved, except that I already have one CV greased and partially on the car. So now that has to come off and get swapped to a different body as well. That's on the list for tomorrow.


        Other stuff complete-

        Mounted the coliover and bypass back on the right rear arm
        Fully connected the sway bar with new F911 hardware
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        • You have a roller now!

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          • Originally posted by Grey Mamba View Post
            You have a roller now!
            Not till tomorrow. Hopefully a runner by the end of this weekend.


            Today was all about CV's and axles and locking down the suspension. I got my delivery from Summit with the stover nuts I use for all the pivot points, aka shocks, front arms, and sway bar. I'm almost out of red Loctite.


            I assembled the left side axle with the leather outer boots, rubber inner boots and boot flanges for each side. This is always a chore on my car because of the amount of travel and the sway bar linking both sides together. As Grey Mamba knows, its easiest to get the CV boots on when the axle is as close to parallel as possible. Should be simple- jack up one arm until the car starts to lift off the ground then use a ratchet strap to cinch it down a little more. But because of the sway bar on my car I have to jack up both sides. I could have just taken the bolts out of the sway bar link but I'm a dumbass and had already locked them down and really didn't want to unbolt the links. So, two floor jacks and two ratchet straps and I was in business.





            Click image for larger version  Name:	20190815_205521.jpg Views:	0 Size:	3.92 MB ID:	29840 Left side is 100% installed. And then I noticed I had missing bolts on the hubs. I must have lost them, or they were missing during tear down, can't remember.




            Click image for larger version  Name:	20190815_163740.jpg Views:	0 Size:	3.45 MB ID:	29841I couldn't buy the exact length I needed so I had to cut them down a little to keep the bolt from digging into the brake rotor.




            Click image for larger version  Name:	20190815_163759.jpg Views:	0 Size:	3.07 MB ID:	29842I also used a die to get the threads back in order before installing. I bought enough bolts to replace all of them but eff that. I'm shortening the 5 that are missing and calling it done.




            And a continuation from yesterdays work on the right side axle- For some reason the CV body wasn't drilled correctly to accept 1/2" hardware. The bolts would go in to the depth of the threads and then get jammed up. No idea what size these two particular CV bodies were drilled for. They could possibly have been drilled for a bolt that was all-thread with no shoulder, which is scary AF, especially on a CV. But I digress. I have a shit ton of good CV bodies so I grabbed two from the shelf and made sure the bolts worked.

            I didn't pull the entire axle off the car. I used a strap to let it hang while I popped off the spiral clip and slid the CV off. Of course it was already greased so it was an effing mess. I disassembled it on the bench and installed the star, cage and balls into the new body. Good to go. I slid it on the axle and installed the spiral clip. I took the strap off and tried to maneuver it onto the trans flange. The effing CV wouldn't move. WTF? I wiped some of the grease off and saw that I had assembled it incorrectly. The star and body were clocked wrong which is why it wouldn't move. Eff me. I popped the spiral clip off and disassembled it for the second time, reclocked it an reassembled it. I made sure to triple check the clocking and it was correct. I got the CV back on the axle and got two CV bolts started. As usual I'm now fingertips to elbows covered in CV grease but the end is near. I had to stop at this point to get dinner going so I'll finish up the small inner boot and leather outer boot tomorrow.

            The car will be a roller by tomorrow once I get the left side caliper bolts drilled for safety wire and install the caliper. Then it's time for the fun stuff- moving to the interior of the car to bend up a new clutch line and make new rear brake lines from the turning brake to the rear arms. Oh yeah, and give my garage and winery one more search for the missing plate that the shifter and turning brake bolt to. I said if I don't find it by Friday I'll just make a new one.
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            • Originally posted by L.R.S. View Post

              . As Grey Mamba knows, its easiest to get the CV boots on when the axle is as close to parallel as possible. Should be simple- jack up one arm until the car starts to lift off the ground then use a ratchet strap to cinch it down a little more. .
              I had a Jonesin' moment last Saturday, Covered in CV grease and couldn't get the damn midboard boot on. Dropping f-bombs on my driveway, sweating like a dog. Called L.R.S. in desperation - I can't get my CV boot on - need ideas!! He told me to lift the trailing arm. But when I did that it pretty much just lifted the whole car. He suggested a ratchet strap. Did that to compress the shocks. Boot went right on. Job finished. Went inside to wash the CV grease out of my hair.

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              • I'm so over this project. Don't get me wrong, I love how it's turning out but I'm burned from wrenching on it every day. This weekend was going to be the final push to make it a runner and get it out of the shop so I can get back to work on other peoples cars, aka paying jobs, but I also needed a little break for myself. I think the biggest problem I'm having are all the little monotonous items I'm taking care of- wiring, plumbing, routing hoses, zip ties, all that kind of stuff that when I step back and look at the car it hasn't changed much. I know what I've done but there's no 'money shot' for lack of a better term.

                So, Friday night I walked to the local watering hole to see some friends, and get annihilated drunk. Seemed like a good idea at the time but not so much Saturday morning. Needless to say, I didn't get shit done to the car on Saturday. That afternoon my neighbors, the Hall family, came by to see the car and have some beers. Again, seemed like a good idea at the time. Then they invited me to a BBQ and UFC fight. And once again, drinking seemed like a good idea until this morning. After laying around for the better part of the day I finally got off my ass and wrenched on the car and I actually got a lot done.



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ID:	29850I drilled the caliper bolts for safety wire. Why? Because racecar.




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ID:	29851I used a piece of welding rod to mock up the new brake lines. The old lines were hammered dog shit and routed weird. They worked but I'm replacing them. The car is too 'pretty' to put them back on.




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ID:	29852There is a bit of a debate on GD about running hard lines vs. steel braided. I chalk it up to people being lazy or inexperienced and going the easy way by using steel braided hose for an entire car. Making stainless lines really isn't that difficult.



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                • I gave my shop and winery/storage one last search for the missing shifter/turning brake mount but it's nowhere to be found. Eff it, time to make a new one. I was dreading this because my Albins shifter worked so well and I had zero issues with it. Making a new mounting plate might screw that up.



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ID:	29856Then I realized I'm kinda dumb sometimes. The existing mount in the car has four holes drilled in it that the plate bolts to. I didn't remember that the shifter bolts go through both mounts. So basically there is no way to screw this up. The turning brake mount is just a plate that sandwiches in between. This was going to be super simple.




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                  I found an old floor jack sand/dirt base that was 3/16" aluminum. Should be plenty strong.



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ID:	2985810 minutes later that was done.




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ID:	29859I didn't like the sharp corner piece being som close to my legs so I cut it down a little.



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ID:	29861With the turning brake now mounted I spent the next few hours making the new rear brake lines. Once those were installed I put some fluid in the master to see if I had any leaks. I found two loose fittings at the bulkheads but that's it. Not too bad for having a 100% new system installed and all the connections I had to make.


                  My son has a job tomorrow but when he gets home the plan is to install the front seats and bleed the brakes and clutch. If that goes well I'll put the car on its wheels and get ready to fire it up.

                  The end is near.
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                  • Lots of tedious work, but I'm very impressed with the progress!!

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                    • I can't wait to see the finished product. The transformation sa far has been great to see. Keep up the great work.

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                      • Originally posted by Grey Mamba View Post
                        Lots of tedious work, but I'm very impressed with the progress!!
                        Originally posted by mcclure_m View Post
                        I can't wait to see the finished product. The transformation sa far has been great to see. Keep up the great work.
                        Thanks guys. Re-read my post and damn, I am a whiny little bitch sometimes. Got home from work, slept, got up and felt 100%. I worked on the car from about noon till 6 pm and hit some milestones.




                        Click image for larger version  Name:	20190819_153118.jpg Views:	1 Size:	4.43 MB ID:	29875My turning brake has never worked because of the wider Jettrim seats I installed. The brake handle hit the seat when pulling it back. With everything else I'm doing to put my car back together 'right' I needed to find a solution for this. I've sen turning brakes mounted upside down, sideways, forwards and backward. As long as they can be bled they will work in any position.

                        I've replaced several turning brakes in clients cars over the past few years and I always keep the old set if the client doesn't want it. I had two on the shelf and one of them had the 45* handle. I thought it might work to clear my seat. A couple of pivot screws and two clevis pins and the handles are interchangeable.




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                        It definitely cleared the seat but it was so far forward I would have a hard time reaching it when fully belted in.


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                        Click image for larger version  Name:	20190819_150504.jpg Views:	1 Size:	4.29 MB ID:	29879 This was way to easy.



                        Click image for larger version  Name:	20190819_150507.jpg Views:	1 Size:	4.33 MB ID:	29880 It does need to come back off for powder coating though. And while I'm having that done might as well get the radiator overflow bottle PC'd. It's polished aluminum and that just doesn't look right on this car.
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                        • Saw the car in person Sunday. It's looking great! And going together faster than some of us can change all the fluids LOL

                          Car is going to look badass when it's done. It was already one of my favorites, but wait to the aluminum goes back on and gets wrapped. But seeing it now really let's you see all the tubing that's on this big prerunner and all the details for how and where things are mounted and how they work.

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                          • I'm glad I jumped on the turning brake right away and got it knocked out. The plan was for my son Balin to help me bleed the brakes today but he had a yardwork job for a few hours and then he ran a set of shocks up to KDM Shocks in Ventura for csrosenberry . Can't let helping me on this get in the way of him making a few bucks. I installed the driver's seat and when he got home he helped me bleed the brakes and clutch, which he has done on more cars than I can remember. If I have worked on your car and did anything requiring the brakes or clutch to be bled then he was the one helping me.

                            My brakes have always sucked! I rebuilt the masters and they are rock solid now. Don't know if the 100% brand new stainless 3/16" brake line helped but I know it didn't hurt.


                            Once that was done I said eff it, time to put his shoes on.



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                            I set the roof in place knowing the Dzus tabs were bent to shit by the PC shop but I had bent them back as best I could. I assumed it was going to be easier to just have new tabs welded in place but once I got the roof on half of the tabs lined up pretty well and the others just needed a little more finesse to get them right.




                            Click image for larger version  Name:	20190819_202424.jpg Views:	0 Size:	3.43 MB ID:	29884So that's done now.



                            I also installed the front passenger's seat and the left rear seat. But in hindsight, I probably should have left that out. I need to get the car to my electrical guy for some wiring changes and all the electronics are under that seat. It will be much easier for him to work on if the seat is out. But I can put the right rear seat in.


                            It's time to make a punch list...
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                            • I am glad you put the bigger arms on and left the tube arms off. For one that big ass car needs the big ass arms to complement it and for two You might need to hit Barstow with @Dzrtrat111 and myself when I come back down to grab everything in a month or two. If we can get both our cars together I think we might plan to do a few hot laps or run one of the race courses and then grab some food at Slash-X. Remember I still owe you a meal at Slash-X for getting me into this mess hahaha

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                              • How many times have you gone back and forth on the wrap design?

                                I'm thinking a simple, white and black wrap now! Would look so clean and mean.

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